If It Does Not Happen in Paris, It Will Never Happen at All

Paris, je t'aime

2007-06-19T21:42:00.001+02:00

One City. 10 Million Hearts. One Love Story. One Film.
Fall in love with Paris 18 times.

In the summer of 2006 a special film was released in Paris called Paris, je t'aime or Paris, I love you. The concept was to invite 20 of the best film makers to create 20 five-minute films of Paris, one for each arrondisement in Paris. The list of directors includes Walter Salles, Alfonso Cuarón, Tom Tykwer, Gus Van Sant, Wes Craven, Alexander Payne, Gurinder Chadha and Joel and Ethan Coen. Only 18 films were included in the final version but still each film shows the diversity of Paris, the different lives one can lead in Paris and certainly the different interpretations of Paris, and especially love in Paris.

The film is released in the United States in June 2007. It is a very special film and not to be missed. Do not be afraid of watching a film while reading many sub-titles; there is a mix of languages, mostly French and English. The actors are French, British and American movie actors, some quite well known. Interestingly, some of the better known actors play minor supporting roles.

One can find several trailers and even several of the films by individual directors on the internet. Here are some that I really enjoy...

The Simple Things in Paris

2007-06-19T21:11:00.000+02:00

Very often I walk through the streets of Paris in the neighborhoods where I live. There is always something new to see, people, buildings and quite often small objects almost hidden from normal view. I like the ancient door knobs, small stone steps and the iron bars constructed to protect doorways from cartridge wheels and now automobile wheels.

One day while walking past the Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th arrondisement where I live, I noticed part of the iron entrance gate to the gardens, finely crafted with an interesting pattern. It was a strong image against the cobble-stones and very typical of the images I enjoy in Paris.

Honesty and Lost Rings in Paris

2007-05-03T20:30:00.000+02:00

There are many, many honest people in Paris, certainly the great vast majority. But then again, there are some people in Paris of less means and morals who take advantage of us honest people.

Take advantage of honest people ?? Isn't there the old saying "You can't cheat an honest man?" This saying is quite true but let me tell you what happened to me and you can decide if I am honest or not.

Tuesday was May 1st, a national holiday in France and all stores were closed except for a few local épiceries or grocery stores, the French version of the American Wawa or 7-11 convenience stores. They are open late in the evenings and often on holidays. I was dying of thirst because of the warmer than usual weather and dreamed of a cool drink of San Pelligrino water. I picked up two bottles and a few other essentials at the local épicerie.

I left the store, crossed the street and noticed out of the corner of my eye as I passed, that a man nearby was bending over picking up a shiny object on the sidewalk. I thought at first was a bottle cap of some other junk. I stepped almost directly over his arm as he picked up the object and I kept walking.

That's when he spoke.

"Excusez-moi, Monsieur. Vous avez laissé votre bague ici." He showed me a large gold wedding band.
"What? No, it is not my ring, Monsieur."
"Mais oui, c'est à vous."
"Mais non. I have no ring."
"Mais oui, it is your ring. Well, if it is not then give it to your woman. It will make her happy. It is a woman's ring."
He hands me the ring. Indeed it is heavy. Apparently gold. "Um, no. It is not mine."
"I cannot wear it. I am a man," he said. "Give it to your woman." He turned and walked away.
"Well, OK. Merci, Monsieur." I turned and walked away.
He turns again. "Ah, Monsieur. S'il vous plait. I am hungry. I don't have enough money for a baguette."
"Um. OK. Take some change." Hmm. He is honest but only needs money for a baguette. I gave him a few coins from the change still in my hand.
"No, that is not enough. Just a little more. I gave you the ring."
"Well, OK, here is two euros but nothing more." And I walk away.

I was thinking that it was better that I have the ring rather than this roughly dressed man. At least I could return the ring and this other man would have not returned it, he would have sold it. Then I thought that if I could not find the owner then perhaps I could sell it for a few euros. But it would be a waste. Those few euros would mean nothing to me. The ring would mean a fortune of memories to the poor woman who was given and had loved the ring. The proceeds from the ring would also mean many meals to the roughly dressed man, who was frankly more honest than me. My head was spinning. It was the worst possible outcome. Everyone lost something.

I though a lot about the poor woman who lost the ring. How will I give it back? At home I wrote a little note simply stating Une bague (a ring) and my phone number. I would place this little sign near the wall and sidewalk where the ring was found. I thought that if this woman searched for wedding band she would see the sign and understand. Certainly I would insist that she describe the ring when she called. Certainly I would not ask for a reward but if she insisted, I would accept two euros since I had given the honest man two euros. This would be my compromise so that both of us would gain. If I did not hear from anyone in six months, I would sadly sell the ring. It would have been replaced by the woman by this time. Six months was the limit I set. Six months was fair.

A day passed and then I thought, is this correct ? Is this moral ? What would someone else do ? I 'googled' for morality, morality test and other words seeking advice.

Then somehow I 'googled' lost ring.

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha !!!!

Sucker !!

What a fool I am.

One of the apparently famous tourist scams in Paris is the "lost ring" scam. A stranger, an honest man bends over to pick up a "lost" ring and offers it to the mark. Negotiations follow and the mark gives money to the honest man. The honest man does not accept the valuable gold ring because it is not his, not the right size, against his religion, blah, blah. It turns out that the ring is brass and almost worthless. The honest man walks away with more than he paid for the ring and the mark walks away with a worthless ring, a few euros poorer.

What a fool I am... and I consider myself as 'street wise.' What would you have done ? Did I do the right thing or was I less than honest ?

Now I am thinking that I will get rid of this valuable ring by appearing to pick up this "lost" ring in front of one of the many tourists in Paris this time of year. I have no doubt that there is only this one lost, gold ring circulating among all of us honest people of Paris.

Here is some required reading for us honest people....
PollyVousFrancais --> With this Ring I Thee Scam
Confidence Tricks
Schemes, Scams & Fraudes
Tourist Scam Alert

France 24, on-line TV

2006-12-07T19:41:00.001+01:00

JustmeinParis has often wished that one simple connection to the internet would bring voice, video, text and images directly to the television, local PC and please, just one, one portable telephone with one unique number that we can carry anywhere and talk with anyone.

Internet Channel France 24
We are one step closer to this dream with the introduction of France 24. This on-line, live channel on the internet is a 24/7 news channel based in France and certainly France's answer to CNN. Jacques Chirac proposed this concept four years ago and last evening at 7:30pm, the station president pushed the "go live" button. The broadcast is made on normal televisions in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. The rest of the world must go on line to France 24 to watch the broadcast.

In an recent interview Chirac said that France has it's view of the world and should broadcast this view that conforms with the French traditions and their concept of peace, humanism and globalism.

On this live telecast, there are a French, Englih and Arabic versions but.. hmm, the Arabic version switched to English this evening. Well, this will be resolved soon I am sure.

Also this evening at 8:30pm France time, France24 introduced the full France 24 website. Wow, it's so cool to click between the French and English versions. The news stories are not exactly the same but they are quite similar and are broadcast in parallel. Certainly for the students of French, it is a great tool to improve the comprehension of French.

It is estimated that this channel will reach 190 million viewers. Hey, why not be the 190 millionth at first viewer ?

The Crooners Busking in Paris

2006-12-06T07:14:00.000+01:00

A friend Lucinda who writes for BonjourParis, introduced me to a band she's passionate about, The Crooners, who got their start busking in Paris. Here's what she writes about her discovery of the group along the streets of Paris...

The Crooners, dressed with old-fashioned charm, their hair worn long and shaggy, appeared to me on rue Mouffetard, like a vision from a bygone era. I learned they were not from Colorado as I presumed, but were actually boys from upstate New York, recent post-grads who had started a band during their days at Cornell. This is the dynamic, and the energy, the band will always capture, the “unbridled revelry” of three collegiate friends. But unlike most college bands, the Crooners had artistic integrity—they were dedicated students of the old-school. There aren’t many of the Napster Generation who listened to Dylan and Nat King Cole as religiously as did the Crooners... Nyles Fitzgerald, Kevin Denton, and Chris Merkley.

Then again, Nyles of the famous washtub bass, had incredible mentors. While a student in Paris, he was able to train under and perform alongside his great-uncle, Danny Fitzgerald, the “granddaddy of busking” who played with the best of them, including Madeleine Peyroux, and introduced Nyles to the world of street musicians and a to a swing revival that European culture had been catching onto since the early 1980s. Fitzgerald taught Nyles the almost technical art of street performance—how to discern the best spots to draw the attention of passerbys, without also attracting the notice of the police. Busking, for Danny Fitzgerald and later for the Crooners, was beyond a technicality—it was a way of life inseparable from the pursuit of art, connecting musicians to their listeners at the most basic, grass roots level.

Brooklyn, New York is now home to The Crooners. They have gained wider following since their days in Paris (take a look at the references to The Crooners or their 'my space'). The Crooners will always fondly remember their roots busking on an unlikely and crowded street in Paris and drawing the attention of a crowd of passersby.

Mois de la Photo-Off and Frédéric Tran

2006-12-03T22:32:00.000+01:00

November in Paris, the Mois de la Photo and the parallel Mois de la Photo-Off were indeed the highlights for the month when for JustmeinParis takes time to visit the new photography expositions in the more accessible formats (Mois de la Photo) and the more contemporary (Mois de la Photo - Off) formats.

Recently, I found myself at the Gare du Nord and there in the adjoining Gare du Magenta was displayed the photography of Frédéric Tran. Frédéric Tran's too few photographs were displayed in large format along a wall of a hallway along with videos of photographs in series (taken by another photographer in the exhibition). This exhibition, as part of Mois de la Photo-Off, featured movement and I thought there was no better way to pay tribute than to take a few photographs to "abstract" the work.

Although a few people stopped to enjoy the photographs and videos of the exposition, most walked by without a glance. What a shame since Paris has wonderful art like this to enjoy and many new and exciting artists like Frédéric Tran offering contemporary art in places as common as a train station.

Paris Photography Galleries

2006-11-19T23:22:00.000+01:00

After having visited Paris Photo 2006 and creating my blog on Paris Photo 2006, JustmeinParis was ready for some serious photographs in Parisian galleries of which there are hundreds. Well, sometimes you are hot and sometimes you are not. Maybe it's just me but when I say, "I could have taken a photo like that" I often wonder why I did not take a photograph and another photographer is showing his images in a gallery. Here is what I found.

Jeu de Paume, Hotel Sully

JustmeinParis love to walk through the grounds of Hôtel de Sully, a hôtel particulier, from rue de Rivoli to la Place des Vosges. Every time it seems like a wonderful discovery of graciousness in Paris. This was my first visit to Jeu de Paume, the underground art museum and now showing the photographs of Joel Meyerowitz in a exposition Out of the Ordinary, 1970-1980 until 14 January, 2007.

The years between 1970 and 1980 were not my favorite and photographs displaying life in those years do not strike me as especially rewarding. Considered to be slightly shocking at the time, Joel Meyerowitz's photographs are colorful, horizons out of line and certainly the antithesis of classic black and white art photography. Hmmm. They actually looked like snapshots to me. Looking on Joel Meyerowitz's web site, I found his other photographs much more interesting than this exhibition.

Ryan McGinley, Galerie du Jour, Agnès B.

The all American road trip is a classic and the photographs by Ryan McGinley show his adventures on such an American road trip in 2005. Certainly the huge, huge color prints show the free spirit and reality of youth but I kept thinking that I took plenty of road trips a while back and nobody was naked. Why are these guys and girls naked? Did I miss something? Is this the new road trip or was I hanging out with the wrong crowd? Finally I thought that my road trips were just as good but nudity was not important to us. Maybe I should have taken photos. Maybe my photographs would be hanging in a gallery somewhere. Well, I did not and they are not.

Centre du Culture Suedois

The Center of Swedish Culture is located in the Marais in an old hôtel particulier. Upon entry, I was struck by the open court with many small tables on the cobblestones. Every table was occupied by young people sipping hot chocolate and coffee and eating pastries from the cafe serving Swedish pastries.

On display were the photographs of Nina Korhonen and Anna Clarén. I found myself thinking that taking photographs of my mother whom I love, would be fine for the family but would I want to display these absolutely huge photographs for the world to see? This woman looks nothing like my mother. Hmmm.

Aux Marches de la Chine, Galerie Fait & Cause

While walking to back to a metro stop, I stumbled upon Galerie Fait & Cause, 58 rue Quincampoix, 75004 Paris that featured photographs of China taken by Wu JIALIN. Finally, here were photographs I could enjoy. Displayed in black and white, these photographs showed a point in history not normally seen. These photographs showed not at all the ugliness of poverty in China although there was, nor violence, nor sensation. Images of daily life of a common man were taken with sensitivity. Wu Jialin once said that he was ashamed to take photographs of people in the street but I find the energy of photographer and subject shine through. This gallery is definitely worth a visit and better yet, there is no entrance fee.

Paris Photo 2006

2006-11-19T20:39:00.000+01:00

Paris Photo 2006 in it's 10th year, was every bit as exciting to me as last year. Photographs shown here are not my own but from the Press Release of the Paris Photo 2006 Press web site. Paris Photo exposition was held at Carrousel du Louvre, hosted 88 photography galleries and 18 editors from all over the world with France, the United States, Spain England and the Netherlands being the most represented. Each art gallery displays its best photographs from the very early days of photography to the present representing the many styles over the years. These often rare and well-known photographs represent the best for the collector of photographs.

Countries of Honor

After honoring Spain in 2005, Paris Photo this year turns to the Nordic countries with special exhibitions from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. A selection of 8 galleries were shown with special expositions of emerging artists.

Expositions of Note

Mona Kuhn was busy at a gallery signing her latest book, Evidence, that shows alluring renditions of the human form. Her photographs appear as diffuse soft nudes from a fashion shoot with a small part of the photograph in focus.

At Flatland Gallery, this year's sensation as was last year, the photography of Ruud van Empel and his huge, colorful, almost naive photographs with flat light and fine details like a modern-day Henri Rousseau. Although he has taken photographs of many different themes, the most impressive of Van Empel's photographs show a single young black child either standing in a jungle surrounded by green foliage or the child's head half submerged in a pond full of water lilies and green plants.

Many people do not like the photographs of Loretta Lux a German photographer, who's photographs of young thin children are disturbing in the misshapen large heads, flat light and strange old clothing and settings. Her photographs are also strange in that they are not as large as others at Paris Photo, but I find them intriguing in their oddity.

Finally in the last exhibition room, I found prints of my favorite photographer, Michael Kenna, represented by Gallery Camera Obscura not far me in the 14e arrondissement of Paris. There on a prominent wall were ten of Michael Kenna's wonderful prints. Each print was 9 inches square (20cm) framed and matted in a much larger 40x50cm frame oriented in portrait. The monochrome prints usually taken for several seconds of exposition, subtly blended from black to gray and white. These images are soothing to me and represent the "zen" of photography and indeed, several of his photographs are taken in Japan.

I was fascinated by seeing the prints of Michael Kenna that I had previously only known by his web site or by the few prints I have seen displayed in galleries in Paris. When I realized that the English voice discussing these prints was really this famous photographer himself, my day was complete.

Daniel Simon - Impressions

2006-11-12T19:24:00.001+01:00

Having missed two almost two weeks of Le mois de la photo 2006, the Month of the Photograph during November because of a business trip (zut!), I was excited to get out and enjoy a few galleries. This afternoon found me at the Galerie du Montparnasse in the 14^e arrondissement of Paris featuring Daniel Simon, Daniel Simon - Impressions. Daniel Simon contributed photographs to hundreds of illustrated features during his 30 years with the Gamma Press Agency.

His work involved working for French and International Magazines but also includes book covers, film and political posters. Daniel Simon's career is typical of the "agency photographers" from the peak of an era that was all about capturing news photographs with one thing in mind: publishing them.

The exposition shows original photographs and their published representations on magazine covers, newspapers and other full-page spreads. It was surprising to see the transformation of good photographs into graphics that we take for granted when we flip through a magazine.

Daniel Simon's photographs cover the well known of the epoch such as Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone Signoret, Catherine Deneuve, François Mitterand and Lionel Jospin in magazines such as Le Point or Paris Match.

The Exposition runs until 15-November, 2006. This exposition is another with free entrance during Le mois de la photo 2006

Galerie du Montparnasse
55 rue du Montparnasse, 14^e arrondissement.
Metro : Edgar Quinet ou Vavin
Telephone : 01 43 22 72 77
Open daily 1 pm - 8 pm

Busking in the Métro of Paris

2006-10-31T23:23:00.000+01:00

We take the Metro in Paris at least twice every day, especially line 4, the city's second busiest line, from Montparnasse to and from Denfert-Rochereau. This line started in 1908 and continues to be improved. Another station at Maire de Montrouge is planned for 2010 and later more stations to the south.

This commute could be a little boring to some people but I find that it never is even slightly boring. There are always strange characters, people doing bizarre things. Justmeinparis loves the little rough videos that show a slice of life in Paris. Here is one taken in the Métro in Paris of someone busking, probably near the station Sevres-Babylone. And what better song than "Love Street" by Jim Morrison (buried in cemetery Père Lachaise) and the Doors.

The Tragic Life of Édith Piaf

2006-10-29T11:25:00.001+01:00

Last night I went to the Théâtre Dejazet in the 3rd Arrondissement of Paris to see Piaf, Une Vie en Rose et Noir with Jacques Pessis and Nathalie Lhermitte as Édith Piaf. The title is of course a reference to her well known song Une Vie en Rose.

I well knew that Édith Piaf led a difficult life but it was not until I researched before last evening and saw the show that I knew really how difficult it really was. Here are some points from the tragic life of Édith Piaf.

Legend has it that Édith Giovanna Gassion was born on the pavement in front of 72 rue de Belleville, but her birth certificate states she was born in a Belleville hospital in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. She was named Édith after the executed British nurse Edith Cavell
Her mother was a 17-year-old girl, native of Italy, who worked as a café singer. Her father was a street performer. She was abandoned by her parents shortly after birth and was given to her maternal grandmother.
Returning a short time later, her father took the child and brought her to his mother, who ran a cheap brothel in Normandy, France. He then joined the army to fight in WWI.
From the age of three to seven Édith was blind. She reportedly recovered her sight after her grandmother's prostitutes pooled money to send her on a pilgrimage honoring Saint Thérèse de Lisieux
From eight to fourteen Édith was deaf
Édith suffered from severe Androgenetic alopecia or male pattern baldness most of her life
In 1929, age 14, Édith left the brothel and joined her father in his acrobatic street performances
She soon separated from her father, going her own way as a street singer in Pigalle, Ménilmontant, and the Paris suburbs
When she was about 16 years of age when she fell in love with a delivery-boy, Louis Dupont, and shortly after had a child, a little girl named Marcelle. Sadly, Marcelle died in infancy of meningitis.
In 1935, at the age of 20, Édith was discovered by a nightclub owner in the neighborhood Pigalle and changed her last name to Piaf, a nickname for little sparrow because of her small size. Her first record was produced in the same year but shortly afterwards, the nightclub owner was murdered and Piaf was accused of being an accessory. She refused to testify but was later acquitted.
Édith met and fell deeply in love with the boxer Marcel Cerdan. Later in 1949, Édith wanted that he join her as soon as possible in New York where she was on tour. Edith insisted that he take a plane rather than travel by ship. He was reluctant, fearing air travel but finally he agreed. The plane crashed into a mountainside in the Azores and all aboard were lost. Piaf never recovered from the loss of her love and took refuge in drugs and alcohol.
Édith Piaf never sang the obvious rhymes amours and toujours, "love" and "always".
Édith started detoxification in 1953 and started to travel throughout the world.
Piaf married in 1952 her first husband who was a singer. They divorced in 1956.
In 1958 she was in a serious car accident and took morphine for pain and relapsed into drug and alcohol abuse.
In 1959, Édith broke down during a performance in New York and thereafter survived a number of operations. She returned to Paris in poor health.
Édith met her second husband, Théo Sarapo, in the winter of 1961. Théo was a twenty-six-year-old hairdresser-turned-singer and actor, and was twenty years younger than Piaf. They married in 1962. He rejuvenated her enough to make her last recordings and performances.
Piaf went to a small town in the South of France in early 1963 to recuperate but she fell in and out of a coma beginning in April 1963. At the early age of 47 on October 10, 1963, Édith Piaf died of cancer. Her husband Théo discretely drove her body back to Paris and announced her death on October 11, 1963.
Upon hearing of her death, Édith's long-time friend, Jacques Cocteau suffered a cardiac arrest and died.
The Roman Catholic Church denied Édith Piaf a funeral mass because of her lifestyle.
Piaf was buried in cemetery Père Lachaise on October 14, 1963.
Théo Sarapo, Édith's husband died in an automobile accident in 1970 and is buried beside Piaf in Père Lachaise.

Despite the dramatic and tragic life of Édith Piaf, she found worldwide success and was loved by everyone. The day of her funeral in Paris there were 400,000 people in the streets of Paris and 80,000 people at cemetery Père Lachaise. Charles Aznavour recalled that Piaf's funeral procession was the only time, since the end of World War II that all Parisian traffic came to a complete stop.

Édith Piaf's songs are still popular. Her recordings have been re-mastered and have brisk sales. Her songs have been sung by international artists like Louis Armstrong, Joséphine Baker, Marlene Dietrich, Johnny Hallyday, Serge Gainsbourg, Liza Minnelli, and recently Etienne Daho. In 1997 Charles Aznavour made a virtual recording with her. Theatre productions like Piaf, Une Vie en Rose et Noir are common. Last night, the audience sang along with Édith Piaf's character. More than forty years after her death, everyone knew the lyrics by heart.

Here is her song L’hymne à l'amour that she dedicated to the love of her life, Marcel Cerdan.

Tapas Bars in Paris

2006-10-25T18:34:00.001+02:00

There is nothing like extending a vacation either through anticipation of things to come before a vacation, or of past memories of a great vacation. My thoughts last evening turned to the Bars à Tapas that I found on my vacation in Andalusia, Spain. A quick search on the Internet found several Spanish restaurants and Tapas Bars in Paris. Little wonder since there are hundreds of restaurants in Paris.

La Fonda, Bar à Tapas

The first referenced on the list of Tapas Bars, La Fonda, is not terribly far from my neighborhood and after a walk past the Jardin du Luxembourg, I was in front of La Fonda, 173 rue Saint-Jacques, not far from the Panthéon in the 5th arrondissement of Paris. This small, narrow bar was smoky and crowded but the tapas indeed were quite close to those I enjoyed in Andalusia, although at Parisian prices. The Spanish, French-speaking hosts were welcoming and helpful in choosing the right combination.

Just three tapas were enough to convince me..., roasted red peppers in tomato sauce; small roasted shrimp in garlic oil; and then, fried tender calamari with small lemon slices. Crusty bread and chilled, fruity white wine complimented the tapas and made this little corner of Paris well worth the stop for a not-so-heavy diner. La Fonda brought me back to the wonderful Tapas Bars and exotic Andalusia, Spain, and indeed made me smile thinking of vacations past.

Jardin des Tuileries

2006-10-24T07:31:00.000+02:00

This last Sunday afternoon was warm although the sun was low and clouds sometimes obscured the sun. Many people walked in the ancient garden Jardin des Tuileries, that extends from the Louvre to Place de la Concorde along the rue de Rivoli.

Jardin des Tuileries was sponsored by Catherine de Médicis, a very influential woman throughout Europe who was the Queen of France and the mother of three further kings. Today the garden is a popular destination for Parisians and tourists alike.

Home of many statues and classic works of art, I found it strange to see a new artwork in the middle of a fountain that is usually surrounded by families, their children sailing colorful model boats. Families and ducks had relocated to other more classical waters.

Andalusia, Spain

2006-10-23T07:29:00.000+02:00

A Short History of Andalusia

As a deviation from the life in Paris, JustmeinParis took a vacation in Andalusia, Spain. It is very beautiful region and the cities really show the influence of history. There are huge “monuments” such as Alhambra in Grenada that was always an Arabic palace and fortress. Others started as Christian churches before the 6th century like Mezquita in Cordoba and when the Arabs arrived starting in the year 711, they built mosques sometimes over and as additions of the original churches. When the Arabs were pushed back some eight hundred years later, the Christians again modified the mosques with additions or other changes. One can certainly see the Arab influence in the architecture. The Arabic palaces are quite beautiful such as the Torre del Oro and Giralda towers in Seville. They are much like those I saw in Morocco, with colorful ceramic tiles and arches. Certainly there is a long history in this part of Spain.

Seville, Spain

In Seville, you can visit the fabulous palace Alcazar where Ferdinand and Isabella were married and where later Queen Isabella gave Christopher Columbus the funding and approval for a voyage to the Indies by going west.

Mysteries of Christopher Columbus

In the Cathedral of Seville, there are the supposed remains of Christopher Columbus. There is a set of statues carrying a coffin with a gold box inside containing the remains. However, Le Guide du Routard says that Columbus has two sets of remains, one in Seville and one in Santiago, Dominican Republic. I visited Santiago but do not remember visiting the site where Columbus was interred. Another guidebook says that the DNA of the remains in Seville was compared with the brothers of Columbus (whose remains are known) and apparently it is not Columbus but an unknown even older unknown male ! Yet another article describes the remains as the illegitimate son of Columbus. There is still another article that says the results suggest there are that there is more than one person in this famous gold box. The officials in Dominican Republic have not allowed examination of the remains there. Oh, well, a little mystery during this year 2006, the 500th anniversary of the death of Columbus. Who is enterred in the gold box in Seville, Spain ? The answer is not as obvious as Groucho Marx's question, “who is buried in Grant’s tomb ?” Expect an update from the research team.

Hillside Villages and Houses of White

The small Andalusian villages with all white houses and buildings are quite a site. These villages started as a fortress or chateau on a hill and perhaps a church surrounded by walls. Sometimes these villages are found along cliffs such as Ronda, Spain that negate the need for walls. Later as these villages grew, the houses clustered around the central hillside. The white color reflects the blazing summer sun.

Spanish Agriculture

The Spanish country is beautiful with many, many trees of olives, almonds and oranges. The mountains are not so high in Andalusia and often covered with agricultural trees. There is an air of being hot because of the dried grasses and Mediterranean shrubs and plants. During the first part of October, the temperature was quite pleasant, into the high 80Fs. During the 10 days, it never rained.

Spanish Life

Spanish daily life is a little different that what I am used to. The mornings seem normal enough. I did discover a great breakfast with coffee and milk, orange juice and toast with a spread of fresh tomato sauce with olive oil drizzled over the top. Mmmm! In fact the orange juice is wonderful, (almost) always fresh and fairly cheap. There were orange trees as far as the eye could see around Valencia, Spain, and sure this is where Valencia oranges originated.

Lunchtime is quite late, beginning around 2pm and lasting through to the end of the siesta around 5 or 6pm. Lunch was simple, large platters of cold cuts, olives and bread, sometimes the olives or a small snack are free with the drinks.

After siesta, normal stores/shops open at 6pm but the restaurants often do not open until 8pm or 8:30pm. Tapas bars often open a little later than restaurants. Mmmmm. I really enjoyed the tapas bars. One can buy small plates of various items such as fish, meats, vegetables, in sauces, simple or perhaps fried. These dishes can be bought together to assemble an entire dinner or just a snack. The Spanish sometimes ‘bar hop’ from one tapas bar to another until around midnight.

Flamenco

There are many Flamenco shows in Andalusia, some very much for tourists but in Seville there is a biennial Flamenco festival and I am sure the level is quite high (there were no tickets left). There are many types of Flamenco but I could not recognize the styles in the two shows I saw.

Driving in Paris

2006-09-30T09:26:00.000+02:00

Do you like driving in Paris ? Watch this film (in normal speed) by Claude Lelouch but at the saying goes, "do not try this at home" ...or in Paris for that matter !

Vacations in France

2006-09-29T21:39:00.000+02:00

Vacation Time

Among my friends and especially my colleagues in the US who know more about the French vacation time, the French vacation time is a wonder to behold. Normally, five weeks of vacation is due to anyone in France. In my company in France, six weeks are given to each employee after the first year.

A French Work Week

Along with the normal six weeks of vacation, the French are required to work no more than 35 hours per week. The thought is that companies will have to hire more people to accomplish the necessary work if the workforce is limited.

The Results ?

Surprisingly, I find that, despite the fewer working hours in France, the same amount of work is accomplished on both sides of the ocean. That is, American and French colleagues work together, each accomplishing project goals on time. We have multi-country teleconferences and exchange e-mail on a daily basis.

A French Workday

It is quite interesting to observe the French arrive at the office. The French arrive at the office later than Americans, after 9:00am rather than at 8:00am or before. When the French arrive, there are many handshakes among the men and kisses with the women. Everyone takes coffee and chats about the news, weather, sports, etc., nothing too personal. And after, everyone returns to their office and works very hard. There are no social exchanges until lunch.

Lunch is a very social time and everyone enjoys talking with their colleagues. The day ends about 6:00pm instead of the American 4:30pm or 5:00pm. I believe the French work harder to get the same work completed. The Americans have the luxury of more hours to complete the work.

After lunch the day is very busy with calls to the US, e-mail and such. The French are always busy and often leave the office quite late with meetings and business with the Americans.

Vacation ?

As required by French law, one must take two consecutive weeks of vacation during the time of June 1st until October 31st.

Not having taken the normal August vacation, I must tell you dear readers, that I will take my two consecutive weeks as required by law, during the first two weeks of October. I leave for Andalusia, Spain (the South of Spain) on the TGV tomorrow, Saturday 30-September.

Be well and look for another entry when I return in two weeks with many stories to tell and photographs to share.

"Busking" in Paris

2006-09-26T20:57:00.000+02:00

Busking

Recently I found something with an English word I had not heard before. Not being familiar with the term, I immediately turned to Wikipedia to find the meaning of busking. Ah, OK, we in the US usually refer to Street Performers. These performers give life to a crowded métro car and I enjoy their contribution. I found this small video by Michael Cleary and Matthiew Wilkinson that captures the spirit of busking and displays a special flavor of daily life in Paris.

France's TGV

2006-09-22T11:51:00.000+02:00

25 Years of the TGV

This year is the 25th anniversary of the TGV or the Train à Grande Vitesse. Since the beginning of the TGV, it has made travel much easier and quicker throughout western Europe, connecting to other train systems Germany, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland and Spain. Some Americans call it the 'bullet train' of France but I have never heard it called that here. 'Bullet train' is generally a high-speed rail train especially refering to the trains in Japan.

TGV Statistics

100 million passengers in France and Europe in 2005
1.20 billion passengers since the TGV started
650 TGV trains run each day in France
250 TGV train stations
260 km/h (160 mph) normal high speed
320 km/h (200 mph) normal high speed for TGV-Est, the new TGV to Reims and Strasbourg
50% of travel is by TGV for less than 3 hours duration in France
23 billion euros in investments of infrastructure over 25 years
65,000 employees
2 of 1500 TGV drivers are women, shame !

The TGV continues to be improved. More high-speed lines are added each year. The TGV set the world record of rail speed of 515 km/h (320 mph) in 1990 on a test track but the rate of repair and maintenance was estimated to be much more than double. Still, normal speeds are increasing.

Practical Matters

I have traveled by TGV throughout France and find it very easy, effecient and comfortable. Living in central Paris, none of the seven major train stations are far. When I take the TGV from La Gare Montparnasse, I leave home walking 25 minutes before the trains leaves. Even then, I have enough of a margin to take my time. Most destinations in France take less than three hours. No wonder most of the French take the TGV instead of a plane for travel under three hours.

Most often I reserve tickets via the internet via the national company SNCF and pick them up at La Gare Montparnasse at a machine. Rental cars can be picked up at destinations saving time and money.

There is an even cheaper alternative than the TGV offered by a small company iDTGV. iDTGV purchases blocks of tickets for one or two TGV cars, usually just one scheduled per day. There are more restrictions but the price is worth it. The tickets are downloaded from the internet and printed on a PC / printer. Nothing could be easier or cheaper. I have paid as little as 25 euros for a fare than I have paid previously for 90 euros.

Still, in a photograph I took at Gare de Lyon, there was one unhappy traveler, stuck amid the busy travelers. Sometimes nothing works well.

How to Speak French in Paris

2006-09-21T07:13:00.000+02:00

The Advantages of Speaking French

This week I ran across an article in the on-line New Yorker Magazine titled In the Waiting Room; The Advantages of Speaking French. The story is about a newly expatriated American living in Paris who abandones taking French courses because he finds it very difficult to learn French. He starts to simply respond to everything with d'accord. D'accord means I am in agreement or "OK." The author never really understands what is being said; he just says d'accord being led from one situation to another, ironically like a protagonist in a French existentialist novel. One day after saying d'accord several times at the doctor's office, the author finds himself in a doctor's waiting room in his underwear as fully dressed people enter and wait for their appointments. He has already said d'accord so he will not return to the examination room to dress and save his dignity.

I can really relate to this story. There are times when I absolutely understand nothing of what is being spoken in French and I need something to say.

Things to Say in French

I read another article about phrases to say the indicate that you understand, even if you do not.

- Hmmm. Ca veut dire quoi, ça ?
- Ah bon ?
- Bien sûr !
- Tout à fait.
- Voilà !

Basically one can get the sense of the converstation and reply correctly without having understood a single word.

Negatively Posed Questions

There are certain words to listen for when trying to respond. The French often pose questions in the negative looking for a positive answer... "Did you not watch the soccer game ?" The answer is clear if one listens for the words "Did you not... ". The answer is always "Si, si" which means "yes indeed" or "I did so..." It does not matter what this means, the answer is always "Si, si", a minimum of two times and sometimes three or four times depending on the emphasis you wish to convey.

Guy Talk

The other day at lunch several of the French guys were talking about their houses (of which I do not have, living in an apartment) and the kitchen upgrades in which they were engaged (yawn). I had absolutely no interest but they were nice enough to invite me to join them for lunch. I am not a real homebody and even the English words are a challenge for me.

For example... you tell me, what is the difference between a hammer, mallet, maul and gavel ? And then there are jack hammers, framing hammers, claw hammers, upholstery hammers, ball-peen hammers and club hammers. And these words are just for hammers. Well you get it. In French, speaking of the words for specific tools, how to use them and where to buy them was such a particularly specific disdiscourse that I never really understood a single word at lunch. I nodded my head said, Ah oui? and Ah...d'accord, and D'accord, je vois quite a few times but I was really thinking of my next vacation in a warm place.

Guy talk is absolutely impossible and the best possible recourse is to say d'accord.

Traps While Speaking French

D'accord is such a great answer except when responding to certain phrases. When someone asks, How ... or Why ... Tell me about ...., one cannot answer d'accord. It would not make sense. One must recognise those key words and come up with a reasonable response. This is not so easy, not having understanding the question in the beginning. I have found that I can always, shrug my shoulders, raise my hands and say bofff......, blowing out some air like the French often do and then walk away. The French like to complain and they are very cynical and sarcastic so this gesture is quite a French thing to do. The other French person will certainly understand even if you do not.

The Problem of Speaking a Little French

I am at the point where I can speak French with ease and understand 98% of something that I have done before. Buying bread, groceries, asking directions... no problem. It's a routine. The problem is that when I speak French, even with an American accent, the French think I understand French 100%. Anything out of the ordinary or new and I am totally lost.

- Bonjour madame, une baguette s'il vous plait. (simple; just a baguette. I'm speaking French !)
- Oui monsieur, coupée en deux ? (ah, what ? total confusion; what the heck does that mean ?!)
- um..., um, ... ah... d'accord. (let's see if that works. If not I can always fake it and say 'boff'.)
- voilà monsieur (wow, it worked. That must mean they cut the baguette in two pieces.)

Taking French Courses

I took French courses during high school like many American students but for me the choice of taking French was mainly because the young female French Teacher was more charming and beautiful than the overweight, beer drinking, middle-aged male German Teacher.

After I began a career with a global French company, I restarted my French training, first within a group of students and coworkers and then with private tutoring. Now that I live in Paris, I continue my French lessons with a private professor. That makes more than ten years of lessons. Some of us will never learn.

Speaking French with Confidence

Confidence in speaking French is very imporant. Attitude is a key factor in interactions with the French. I certainly have advanced over the years but there are certain times when someone asks me a question very rapidly when there is a lot of noise or converstations nearby. There are times when I do not understand at all. I have a solution, however. I am confident in giving an answer and will act accordingly. I look at them straight in the eye, lean forward and I with all confidence possible, I say......... d'accord.

Journées du Patrimoine, Paris; Part II

2006-09-18T19:59:00.000+02:00

Les Journées Européennes du Patrimoine

Sunday was overcast and cool and therefore a perfect day to visit another grand building, monument or site during the two-day Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, or European Heritage days in Paris. Having waited in line to visit other wonderful sites on Saturday, it seemed easy to brave the crowds and the long lines to visit at other popular sites.

Le Palais Royal

The first noted residence of what would later become Le Palais Royal situated near the Louvre, was Cardinal Richelieu in 1624. This grand building is the site of many famous residents ever since. Now the home of the Minister of Culture and Communications, Le Palais Royal opens it's doors to the people of France for two days per year. The many wonderful rooms blended old French traditions and new modern paintings and sculptures.

The Offices of the Palais Royal

Several of the conference rooms were dedicated to the Department of Finance and libraries that were certainly less elaborate and more functional. Most of the offices and desks were clean of papers and books but I had to laugh at a large office of workers with paper, books and references stacked everywhere. Certainly the French bureaucracy lives as it does in every government.

Journées du Patrimoine, Paris; Part I

2006-09-16T19:51:00.000+02:00

Journées Européennes du Patrimoine

Each year in September, for one weekend, the governments of European nations open the doors to buildings, monuments and sites to the public, many of which are not normally accessible to the public. The thought is to widen access to the government and foster good will among the people of the nation. This event, Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, European Heritage Days or Doors Open Days, started in France in 1984 and spread to other European nations over the years. Other nations even on other continents are sponsoring similar events.

Exceptional Openings

This year was the third year I was able to enjoy this grand event, sponsored by the Ministre de Culture. Memorable visits have included visiting the once-per-year opening of the Sénat de France, Manufacture des Gobelins de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie (hand woven carpets in the ancient tradition), Opéra, Hotel de Sens. Each visits offers a special look at France and it's culture.

Palais de l'Elysée

Last year the thought crossed my mind that to visit the Palais de l'Elysée would be excellent. Palais de l'Elysée is the residence and offices of the President of France, Jaques Chirac. This thought must have crossed the minds of many hundreds of other people's minds last year and much before I arrived at the line end of the line it streched as far as I could see. The guard said it was too late to visit.

This year I planned ahead, I rose early and arrived at the line at 8:20am. The tour started at 10:00am giving me plenty of time. Of course there was already a crowd in line and I walked to the end of the line. Walking to the end of the line took over ten minutes. The wait in line to the front door was three and a half hours.

In the end, the visit was worth the wait as one can see from the photos.

Most impressive was the State Dining room with a large table dwarfed by the immensity of a the dining room surrounded by curtains with a huge painted ceiling above. The table was perfectly set, chairs removed for the visitors to have a perfect view. Chandeliers hung from the ceiling high above.

Hotel de Marigny

Hotel de Marigny is the residence of visiting foreign states of head or other dignitaries. Hotel de Marigny is located directly across the street from the Palais de l'Elysée so those foreign dignitaries need not take the long motorcades across Paris. I was impressed by the luxury of the Hotel. Remember that Hotel once meant hostel since there was not really the concept of traveling like one does today. Hotels were permanent residences that sometimes hosted travelers.

Hotel de Beauvau

Hotel de Beauvau is the residence of the Secretary of the Interior, one of the most important posts in the French government. The post is currently held by the conservative Nicolas Sarkosky who is very popular and likely the next president of France. I did not take a photgraph of "Sarko's" desk. No computer was visible.

The Hotel de Beauvau is quite large, not as elegant as either Hotel de Marigny or certainly the Palais de l'Elysée. There are many bureaucratic offices and functional rooms, without interest. Interestingly during World War II, there were interrogation rooms for French resistance fighters. Hotel de Beauvau was taken over by the Germans during WWII for their use, particularly by the German Gestapo.

Cemetary Père Lachaise, Paris

2006-09-12T20:51:00.000+02:00

Cemetaries in Paris

Irrespectively of our religious thoughts, there are the practical matter of where we put our dead. Different cultures and places in the world deal with this necessity differently. Paris, being more than two millennium old, in no exception.

There is something intriguing to everyone about the old cemeteries in Paris. I recently bought a guide to summer walks in Paris and among the suggestions of parks and green spaces there were the cemeteries. There are 14 marked cemeteries within the city limits. I say marked because there are certainly more cemeteries that have been built upon or forgotten. Not forgotten are the Catecombs of Paris, those underground caves carved into the limestone over the centuries to keep the remains of millions of Parisians, but the Catecombs are for another story.

Le Cimetière du Père Lachaise in Late Summer

Last Sunday, after being inspired by my adventure in the Cimètaire de Montparnasse on Friday, I ventured to La Cimetière du Père Lachaise for the sunny afternoon, taking Métro line 6 from Montparnasse to Nation then line 2 to station Philippe Auguste in the 20th. The leaves are starting to turn yellow in many of the trees and families were strolling with babies in carriages along the cobblestone lanes. To me it seemed a dichotomy to enjoy such a pleasant afternoon among thousands of dead. And who were they, the tens of thousands resting here ? Certainly many are or were quite famous and known throughout the world in their time and indeed our own.

Death and Decay

It is disturbing that there are so many magnificent tombs that have fallen into a state of decay, obviously being forgotten and lost by those who once loved the deceased. Someone once built stately monuments, tombs, statues for their loved ones. Obviously those who did so follwed and are gone as well. The generations who followed were more and more removed.

Walking through a grand cemetery such as Père Lachaise makes me think of my own mortality and the certainty of my death, then years later of me being forgotten. Death and eventually being forgotten will happen to everyone after dozens, hundreds or thousands of years. These macabre photos are my interpretation of that eventuality.

Paris Left Bank Shops

2006-09-09T22:39:00.000+02:00

La Boulangerie Poilâne

This evening I walked along the rue de Vaugirard towards the Seine, taking a turn to rue du Cherche-Midi and walked by the original location of the famous bakery Poilâne. Pierre Poilâne opened this bakery in 1932 at No. 8 rue du Cherche-Midi in the Saint Germain des Prés district of Paris. Pierre made a dense, stone-ground whole wheat bread with natural fermentation and baked in a wood-fired baking oven. Even after WWII, Pierre Poilâne continued his rustic craft despite the fact that white bread was much in fashion.

The production of Poilâne bread was much expanded after Pierre's son Lionel took over the business in the 1970s. Today, the sourdough bread can be found in many supermarkets and restaurants throughout Paris but we Parisians find the little original bakery a delightful place to buy the famous bread.

La Fromagerie Barthélemy

There are other small shops in the Saint Germain des Prés area, such as the fromagerie Barthélemy at 51, rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris run by Roland Barthélemy. Although he does not have a website for the fromagerie, or 'cheese shop', many references of Fromagerie Barthélemy can be found by searching Google. One reference quoted an American...

"The clever cat eats cheese and breathes down rat holes with baited breath."

W. C. Fields (1880-1946),
American comic and actor

Le Repaire de Bacchus

There are other little boutiques that appear to be quite small and family run but are part of a large network. An example is Le Repaire de Bacchus on 74 rue de Grenelle. Although one can certainly buy wine on-line and have it delivered, I find it interesting to buy in the little store.

Montparnasse Cemetary, Paris

2006-09-08T19:33:00.000+02:00

The Paris area Montparnasse is quite lively with restaurants, theaters, cinema and other activities to draw a wide variety of people into the neighborhood. This late afternoon, however, I decided to visit a part of Montparnasse that is quite the opposite and quite literally dead.

The Cemetary of Montparnasse was established in 1824 from three farms outside and to the south of Paris. Since that time, Paris has grown and the boundaries have overcome and passed the cemetery. Other cemeteries are found in Paris such as Père Lachaise in the northeast of Paris which is larger and perhaps more known to Americans.

Cemetery Montparnasse is the final resting place of many of the world's intellectual and artistic elite such as Jean-Paul Sartre, Simon de Beauvoir, Samuel Beckett, Serge Gainsbourg, Susan Sontag, Antoine Bourdelle and many others. The many tombs, both old and new are facinating and in the late afternoon light took on a depth that lead to some interesting photographs.

There were other people visiting the Cemetery elderly people, caretakers of children and their young, tourists and those just seeking solitude among the tombs.

Marble and granite were predominate with many large family burial places. Often flowers both real and artificial were left. To me, the statues were the most interesting.

Guards signal the closure of the cemetery by using police whistles as they walk along the main paths. When I heard the whistles fifteen minutes before the official closure at 6pm, I walked to the nearest exit but found the gates already closed by lock and key. I found a guard and we discussed the beauty of the cemetary as he walked with me to an open gate.

Japanese Weddings in Paris

2006-08-26T10:30:00.000+02:00

The Japanese in Paris

Many people in the world hold a special fascination of Paris and none more so than the Japanese. Anytime of the year there are Japanese tourists visiting the grand monuments and more touristic areas of Paris. It is amusing to see how they pose and take photos of each other. They are much more skilled and posing than the Americans who seem to stand with stone-like grins.

Japanese Restaurants

Japanese restaurants are replacing Chinese restaurants as Parisian favorites. Last year I witnessed the transformation of a Chinese restaurant along the Boulevard du Montparnasse into a sleek modern sushi restaurant. The old stone Chinese dragons remained on the sidewalk for two months before disappearing. A French friend swears that to stay competitive, the Chinese owners learn Japanese cuisine and re-make their restaurant into Japanese, the Chinese serving Japanese, but I have not seen this. The Japanese restaurants are really Japanese.

The Parisian Wedding

The highest form of Japanese love of Paris is the Parisian wedding. As I understand, the formal Japanese wedding is held in Japan and then the entire wedding party is transported to Paris for another celebration and especially for photographs. It is common to see the wedding party in Parisian parks and near Parisian monuments.

Here is a wedding photograph (perhaps not Japonese this time ?) in front of the barracades of the Louvre.

En Cherchant du Pain, Finding a Parisian Bakery in August

2006-08-22T10:46:00.000+02:00

La Boulangerie Littré

When I arrived to live in Paris in November 2004, it was a few weeks before I found a good bakery, or boulangerie. At the Boulangerie Littré, the two older women were always together and greeted customers very politely, cheerfully and they were accepting of my developing but heavily American-accented French. They were open all week including Sunday mornings. The baguettes were excellent, crusty and fresh; the croissants were flakey and tasted of butter.

- Bonjour Monsieur, que desirez-vous ?
- Bonjour Madame. une baguette s'il vous plait.
- Oui, Monsieur. Voilà, Monsieur. Avec ceci ?
- C'est tout, merci madame.
- Quatre vingt centimes, s'il vous plait.
- Voilà, Madame.
- Merci Monsieur. Bonne journée.
- Merci Madame. Bonne après-midi.

I had little need to go elsewhere for my bread and it was great practice for French being so simple and polite.

Open in August ?

The first summer I was in Paris, La Boulangerie Littré announced on a black-board placard in front of their door, written in chalk, that it was proudly open for the entire month of August. Never mind that they were closed for three weeks in July.

Change of Ownership

La Boulangerie Littré re-opened in August 2005 with new management and I no longer saw the two women. The first several days presented very poor baguettes and the new young woman at the counter was curt and obviously not interested in her customers. I soon stopped visiting the bakery.

I then noticed they were closed (again for 3 weeks !) for installation of new ovens during December 2005. I tried the new baguettes shortly after the reopening and found them almost as delicious as the originals made by the two women. I returned to buying my baguettes and croisants there. That is to say, when the bakery was open.

I have the impression that the baker at La Boulangerie Littré has this little shop as a hobby. The hours are a fraction of what they were; they are no longer open on Sundays nor in August and they are frequently closed for long weekends.

Les Boulangeries en Août

Last weekend being mid/end of August, finding a good bakery was difficult.

Closed were:

La Boulangerie Littré, 13 rue Littré 75006,
La Boulangeris Robin Pascal, 19 Rue Odessa, 75014, in my opinion, the very best boulangerie in Montparnasse,
The boulangerie on rue de Montparnasse that I do not know the name but serves OK baguettes, 75014.
The boulangerie at the Metro Duroc, 75007.
The boulangerie at rue de Sévres and rue Mayel, 75007

Hmm. All closed.

A baguette at the national chain Pomme de Pain is baked elsewhere in some huge factory, it tastes "industrial" and is a poor substitue for a real baguette. In the end, it had to suffice that Sunday morning.

Boulangerie Closure Protocol

There is a protocol for boulangerie closures in August. The boulangeries post signs on the closed doors noting the dates of closing and return, plus alternative open boulangeries in the same neighborhood. The notices are much like pharmacies that note the contact information of a pharmacist and addresses of alternate pharmacies when the neighborhood pharmacy is closed.
Les Boulongeries are that important !

3 jours, 3 euros

2006-08-20T20:13:00.000+02:00

3 jours, 3 euros

Today, Sunday, was the first day of 3 jours, 3 euros (3 days, 3 euros). All seats in all cinemas are three euros per person for August 20, 21 and 22, no matter what the film, no matter which cinema. Just during the most quiet period of mid-August when Parisiens are vacationing, this little Film Festival brings some excitement and indeed revenues to somewhat empty Parisian cinemas. There was no better film to see than Paris je t'aime, a film first shown at the Festival du Film à Cannes. This film was a mélange of 18 directors with just five minutes each to tell a story of Paris. There were many different styles and some I found much better than others but what I really enjoyed was viewing the Parisian neighborhoods I know from a film director's lens.

Special Paris Events

3 jours, 3 euros is one of the special things that the mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoë has done to raise the spirit of the city. Another event, Paris Plage, ended today after one month. I must admit that I did not get down to the Seine enough this year. I was away for two long weekends and frankly, the month of August has been quite chilly. Parking in Paris is free in August to encourage people to visit. Sure there are plenty of tourists but the city lacks the French. I will miss them until they really come back in September.

Paris Cinema

The French love films and eventhough the entry price is more than 9 euros ($11), the lines are normally long and it is necessary to arrive early. The quartier Montparnasse where I live is famous for it's cinemas, theatres and restaurants. At the cinamas there are special subscription prices for a booklet of tickets or special reductions through the place of work. For those who are in Paris in August and the weather is not ideal, 3 jours, 3 euros is a special little event that makes living in Paris a pleasure.

Alpine Flowers in the Snow

2006-08-17T21:52:00.000+02:00

In August when the South of France and indeed the Western United States where I grew up, bake under a hot sun and all vegetation turns yellow and brown, the high mountain valleys of Switzerland become bright green colored with wildflowers.

During the first few days of vacation in Switzerland, when the skies were cloudy and it often rained and snowed, I kept my camera lens to the ground on the delightful floral subjects.

Among the alpine flowers was Edelweiss, a flower I had never seen before. My specimens were not ideal but pushing out of the ice and snow next to wild bluebells, they evoked a certain beauty that I found exceptional.

Many other wild flowers were at their prime and the same or similar to those with which I am familiar from the Rocky Mountains and in particular, the wildflowers of central Idaho.

Riederalp, Switzerland

2006-08-17T21:05:00.000+02:00

Riederalp, Switzerland is a small village relatively untouched by the huge tourism of the more famous ski and vacation spots in Switzerland and thus the few hotels are not large and there are still many small chalets. The village is reached only by cable-car from the valley of the Rhône River far below. No cars are allowed in the village; one walks the relatively short distance among hotels, restaurants and businesses. Several electrical carts or small electrical service vehicles traverse the paths.

Most tourists visit in winter when the alpine ski trails are open and the ski lifts take skiers to the top of the ridge giving a wide range of of ski choices.

My visit was in August, and the objective was to see the glacier Aletsch. The glacier Aletsch covers more than 120 square kilometers (more than 45 square miles) in southern Switzerland. It has a maximum depth of about 3000 feet and descends from the south of the mountain Jungfrau into the valley of the Upper Rhône. Webcams seem to be popular in Switzerland and the view of the glacier Aletsch is no exception and show a view of the glacier.

The ride to the top of the ridge over Riederalp by cable car was simple and once at the top, it was obvious how high we were. Fog, clouds, snow and sleet made the force of nature obvious. Walking along the glacier-side of the ridge, the sight of the glacier was impressive, that is when the clouds briefly lifted.

Cuisine of the Alps

2006-08-16T20:47:00.000+02:00

When one thinks of the Alps, the thought of cold winter weather, mountain chalets and hot nourishing food come together. Certainly that is the case of the Alps of Switzerland and France. Geography plays a big part in the cuisine of the Alps. Pastureland is plentiful and there are many cattle. Cheese is dominant. Meat and potatoes are almost always present in a dish. Zürigschnätzlets (pork or veal scallops) and Rosti (like American 'hashbrowns') are classics of Swiss cuisine. Vegetables as known in the US are rare.

Fondue

When one mentions Swiss cuisine, everyone in the US knows fondue, the pot of melted cheese over a small flame in which to dip bread. Fondues are found on menus as the classic Cheese, 'Oriental' (beef and vegetables to be dipped in a broth) and 'Bourgogne' (a deep fat fondue with beef to be dipped and cooked). During my vacation in Switzerland, we ordered cheese fondue with tomato, a perfect dinner in a small Swiss chalet high in the mountains. The plates and wine were placed and the fondue arrived. The pot was full of a bubbling orange-red thick liquid accompanied with a small ladle of about 1/4 US cup. There was a large basket of boiled small potatoes. Voilà. Hmmm. I thought bread should be a part of the diner and something else. Well, it was a very simple offering. Soon the hostess asked if everything was alright and as an afterthought she offered bread cubes. I do not know if bread is part of the traditional dish or if she wanted to please the American at her table. At any rate, the tomato fondue was indeed delicious and hearty for the chilly and raining, mid-summer evening.

Raclette

Along the same theme of melted cheese, is the Raclette, another hearty dish of the Alps. Cheese is served as a half large round of cheese of about 6 kg (13.2 lb), five inches thick and perhaps 12 inches in diameter, cut into a semicircle. The half round is for two persons. There is a large table-top electrical heating element over the open part of the half cheese. A metal cradle holds the cheese under the heating element. The cheese is heated until the surface starts to melt and then the cheese round can be moved out from under the element so the cheese is open and easy to scrape the top layer of melted cheese with a special spatula onto a plate below. Racler means to scrape. The melted cheese is served with cured ham, boiled potatoes, gherkins and bread. One melts a small amount of cheese at a time from the Raclette to serve hot in small portions. For two people the large half round cheese is of course impossible to finish. I am sure that the remains find there way into tomorrow night's fondue !

Digestive

To conclude a meal, often an herb-based alcoholic digestive, Génépi is served. The flavor is less sweet than many digestive and somewhat of an acquired taste. There are commercial products available but the homemade 'rule of thumb' is 40 flowers, 40 grams of sugar, 40 degrees of alcohol. For dessert one evening after a supurb Raclette, I enjoyed an ice cream flavored with Génépi and decorated with a sprig of mint.

August Vacations

2006-08-02T15:16:00.000+02:00

Vacation Time !

August is vacation time and about half the Parisians leave the city for two weeks at a time. That is to say, the other half of the Parisians leave for two weeks the opposite half of August ! The first, middle and last weekends of August (coinciding with two weeks of vacation) are mass exodus and mass entry times in France. The highways are blocked for dozens of miles in all directions starting at 6am on the Saturday mornings for those leaving and all day Sunday for those returning. Special traffic reports are issued for these three weekends.

In the city of Paris in August, traffic is light, many restaurants, bakeries and small shops are closed. Even the justifiably famous little original ice cream shop Berthillon on Isle Saint Louis, first opened in 1954, closes for half of July and all of August (go figure, peak ice cream season). Thankfully, their ice cream and sorbet are sold at a few other select cafés and restaurants in the city and one can enjoy those intensely flavored tiny scoops all summer.

La Cage

Around the touristique city center and the famous monuments (Notre Dame de Paris, La Musée du Louvre, Eiffel Tower) there are plenty of vacationers. Indeed, Paris is the most visited city in the world. But I happen to like Paris in August just because, there are fewer Parisians. Well, I like the Parisians but in the less touristique neighborhoods where I live, there are fewer people. I like August, even if it means I have to plan shopping and restaurant dining more carefully. One of the French told me, La cage est plus belle sans les oiseaux (the cage is more beautiful without the birds). I totally agree.

August Excitement

August is certainly not without excitement. Of course, you have heard about the controversy of Floyd Landis and the Tour de France doping tests. Just this week Pat McQuid, the head of the Union Cycliste Internationale, decided to accelerate the testing of Landis' famous B sample. To resolve the issue quickly ? Well, perhaps but you can guess the real reason. Yes, the French national anti-doping laboratory in Châtenay-Malabry, will be closed starting this Friday, for two weeks vacation. The laboratory agreed to start the testing even if it means that they have to work on Saturday to finish the detailed tests before their vacation.

To all,

Bonnes vacances !

... but I will be in Paris in August to enjoy la cage sans oiseaux.

When One Opens a Window in Paris

2006-07-31T20:12:00.000+02:00

Windows without Screens

Windows are wonderful in Paris. I open the windows to the apartment quite often, especially in the summer during the evenings and night to let the cool breeze pass through. To the amazement of my curious American family and friends, no one has window screens in Paris or in France. At first I thought this was strange myself and then after thinking about it, I wondered why we really need screens after all.

Winged Creatures

There are very few house flies or mosquitoes in Paris. Paris is a city and one would expect fewer flies. But the streets are not exactly clean, ahem, and there are many opportunities to breed baby flies. Quite possibly the answer is the multitude of martinets or common swifts who patrol the skies of Paris. Arriving in May from Africa, announced by their little 'scree-scree' sounds and they must consume a huge number of flying insects.

I wonder about the larger flying creatures entering through an open window. There are the ground-loving grey pigeons or pigeon biset and the larger pigeons colombin much like what I think of as mourning doves, but they do not seem to mount to any sort of elevation unless they are going somewhere and then again they do not seem to be interested in entering an open window.

There are certainly other birds in Paris such as crows and seagulls but none seem to be tempted by an open window either.

With that to say, open, screenless windows are normal, even the floor to ceiling, walk-out type like I have. I do have a narrow balcony but being on the 7ème étage or the 8th floor as Americans count them, I am not worried by critters entering my apartment.

A Visitor

One warm evening while being a mouse potato at my computer, I saw a brief movement, a shadow over my left shoulder. I turned and looked. There in my the middle of my bedroom on the 8th floor of the building, looking straight at me, was a very large black cat with large yellow eyes.

I rose and called but the cat leapt out the floor-to-ceiling window... (don't worry)... onto the balcony and ran past the rather decorative but ineffective separation between my apartment's balcony and that of my neighbors. Obviously the neighbors had their walk-out window open and being curious creatures, the cat explored.

Two more times I saw the cat in the apartment. One morning I woke early to a small noise and went to investigate. Yes, it was the cat in my office playing with something. We looked at each other and the cat ran out the bedroom window.

The last time I saw the black cat was over one month ago. I had left my bedroom window closed because of a rather strong breeze during the night and when I rose for the day and entered the living room where the window was open, there was the black cat in the middle of the living room. We looked at each other for a second and the cat ran for the bedroom window. He stopped and looked at the closed window. Ooops. After two seconds of panic the black cat dashed back into the living room and desperatelyy sprang out of the open living room window on the 8th floor.... Hopefully he did not slip into the void.... But I have not seen him since.

.... and my windows are open right now.

Tour de France 2006 ends in Paris

2006-07-23T23:10:00.000+02:00

The Tour de France 2006 ended today on the Champs Elysées after the racers traveled more than 2000 miles throughout all regions of France.

19 of the 20 teams completed the trip and each team, sponsored by a major company, wore colorful jerseys and rode bicycles that were obviously technically excellent. The race went from the Concorde to the Arc de Triomph (four round-trips) allowing the thousands of spectators chances to capture a photo or two.

Surprisingly after the reign and retirement of American Lance Armstrong, another American won. Floyd Landis from Pennsylvania won by a 'nail biter' and his joy showed as he took the 'victory lap' along the grand boulevard.

The photographers stormed Landis whenever he stopped and he greatfully allowed them to do their work.

Even Lance was there along the Champs Elysées......

When it's Hot in Paris and Other Thoughts

2006-07-23T01:02:00.000+02:00

When It's Hot

The last couple weeks have been warm for Paris, up into the mid 90s. It is very rare to have air conditioning in Paris so we have suffered a little. Well, one dresses for the heat and shutters the windows during the day and opens them in the evening and night. Everyone is eating salads along the sidewalk cafés and drinking chilled rosé wine.

This evening the weather is quite comfortable with a small breeze flowing through the apartment and the temperature being in the lower 70s. When it was warmer this afternoon I took a siesta and now I can enjoy staying up later this evening.

The Paris Plage

The Paris Plage (Paris Beach) opened Wednesday and everyone is taking advantage. Several tons of sand were brought in, beach chairs, umbrellas, etc. along the Seine and there is a vacation spirit. I will go down tomorrow and take a few photos.

The Tour de France (bicycle race) arrives in Paris tomorrow finishing along the Champs Elysées after having spent several previous weeks with stages in most parts of France. Now that Lance Armstrong has stopped participating, the field is open and it is amazing that an American again will probably win tomorrow.

All said, tomorrow will be charged, starting with housekeeping in the morning, Tour de France mid-afternoon and then Paris Plage in the late afternoon. Hopefully, I can do everything on the schedule.

The Coupe du monde

There is usually something in the papers each day about Zidane and the Coupe du Monde. He was fined last week and suspended for three games, even if he is retired. There is not much one can do about that unfortunate lack of judgment in the last minutes of the last game of Zidane’s career. Certainly everyone was buzzing about the game and it still comes up in conversation. Most people here think that even if he was insulted, the head butt wasn’t very sportive and uncalled for. The speech after the game of Jacques Chirac was empty when he praised Zidane for his contribution, for giving France hope and for his excellent sportsmanship… dohhh. Guess he had that written before the game.

Bordeaux and Region

The trip to Bordeaux was quite good the weekend of 14-Juillet. I took the train to Bordeaux and then by car to the Medoc and saw the famous wine chataux, most of which were closed for the holiday and the weekend....hmm. I did not realize that the Grand Chateaux require a reservation one month in advance (Lafite Rothschild, Chateaux Margaux, etc.) and the lesser known require one week’s reservation. Well, I did visit two lesser châteaux but I was not impressed with the wine I tasted. In the end, I did not buy any wine to lug back to Paris. I notice there are some of the same wines in my local supermarket for a few euros more than in Bordeaux. On the internet one can buy wine, the selection is greater but on has to pay for shipping. There is no free lunch but if the lunch includes a good wine, well… who cares ? The rest of the trip was to the west coast and beaches, then to the Saint Emillon region (more wine).

Weekend at Arcachon

2006-07-18T22:11:00.000+02:00

The weekend of 14th July was a long one with Friday being the Holiday. With just two extra vacation days, the Thursday before and the Monday after, I avoided the crowds traveling and I made a five-day weekend. The train from Paris to Bordeaux is just three hours and a huge difference in spirit.

Bastille Day (14-July) found me on the beach near the opening to the Atlantic from the Bassin d'Arcachon. Sun was setting and the surfers were taking advantage of the rather small but surfable waves. I do not know what type of surfing this is but the guys and one girl slid on boards on the thin sheet of water after a wave filled the beach and sometimes caught a breaker. The light was excellent and the air was very heavy with humidity after the hot day.

Facing the mouth of the Bassin d'Arcachon is a huge dune, some 100 plus meters rising from the beach below. When I climbed the pre-fab stairs on the land side, I had no idea the dune would be so huge. It stretches for several kilometers along the coast and is starting to envelope the forest on the leeward side.

Many of us arrived to watch the sunset perching near the summet of the first dune which overlooks the mouth of the Bassin d'Arcachon.

Several recreational boats of all sizes and shapes traveled in and out of the Bassin.

World Cup Soccer in Paris

2006-07-06T00:10:00.000+02:00

Paris is seldom dull and this week in particular has brought more than the usual level of excitement. France and indeed Paris are in a frenzy over the 'Coupe du Monde'. Last evening I watched most of the match of

France

versus

Portugal

. It was a little warm but pleasant (80degrees) and I left the windows open to the cool breeze as did the neighbors. Normally there are no sounds from the neighbors and indeed the apartment is usually quite calm and quiet. Well, except last evening when I could hear the cheers and groans from the multiple 'Coupe du Monde' parties. As soon as the match concluded with

France

's 1 to 0 victory, there were many loud cheers and soon there after, car horns blasted coming from everywhere. Although the match finished around 11pm, there were still honking horns well into the middle of the night. The standard rallying place is the Blvd des Champs Elysées but last night the celebration clearly spread throughout the city. I can only imagine the wild celebration if

France

wins the final on Sunday evening. I will have to take a nap Sunday afternoon just in case.

Fête de la Musique, Paris

2006-06-19T23:36:00.000+02:00

Paris, summer 2006; the Longest Days

The longest summer days are among my favorite in Paris, especially the Fête de la Musique which is celebrated on June 21st each year. All of France and many countries in Europe celebrate the summer solstice with free concerts and other festivities. In looking at the schedule for Paris area there were over 500 free concerts and musicians playing. There are classical music concerts of chamber music in gothic churches, orchestras in concert halls, jazz bands in bars, and musicians along the streets with an amplifier plugged into a free outlet singing rock or French 'chansons'. Of course there are many ad hoc performers who sit on the curb, sing and play with their hat in front hoping for a few euros but all performances are supposed to be free.

The restaurants and cafes are packed, the streets are filled with people walking, the metros run completely full all night (with a special of 2.50 euros for all night) and the streets are impassable by the cars. The sun sets at 10pm but there is twilight for another hour and one cannot see the starts until much later. Last year I bragged that I stayed out until after dark ! Well, it was a work night but I did not return until near 1am.

Tomorrow evening is the Fête de la Musique and I plan to go down to the Latin Quarter. Hopefully the Metro will not be crowded but certainly the streets will be more and more crowded as the night goes on.

Certainly I will walk back the 20 minutes to my apartment or so since the Metros become very crowded later in the evening.

The Island of Hvar, Croatia

2006-06-19T18:30:00.000+02:00

It does not seem possible that I was on vacation one month ago. The French vacation company Nouvelles-Frontières has many trips and I chose to take with them, a two-week multi-sport tour of the islands of Croatia between Split and Dubrovnik. We landed in Split on the coast and the next day took a ferry to the island of Hvar. On Hvar we took bicycles along the streets of the small harbor village of Vrboska which has a little estuary. The stone bridge there is only wide enough for bicycles and pedestrians.

The group of five voyagers plus the French and English speaking Croatian guide stayed in a small hotel / guest house in Jelsa which overlooks the small harbor and village. The view of the town center and churches was excellent. The modern ferry runs several times per day with the last stop in Jelsa for the evening. By early morning, the boat has parted and the harbor is quiet.

The little town of Jelsa has many stone building, cobbled streets and many wonderful views.